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Guide · Flooring

Which Floor Covering Suits Which Room?

Choosing a floor covering starts with how it looks and does not end there. Three things decide it. How likely the room is to get wet, how much it will be walked on, and the condition of the existing floor. The same product can last for years in one room and cause problems within the first year in another. This guide is written to make that choice against those three questions.

Last updated: 17 August 2026

What is the difference between laminate and engineered wood?

The names sound close and the build is different. Laminate flooring is a dense core board carrying a printed decorative layer and a protective wear surface. There is no real timber on the top face.

In engineered wood the top layer is real timber, over core layers pressed in alternating directions. That build moves less than solid timber and behaves more predictably against moisture.

The practical outcome is this. Laminate is more economical and resists scratching well, but once damaged it cannot be repaired and the plank is replaced. Engineered wood can be sanded and refinished because the surface is real timber, though it asks for more care around water.

What goes in a wet room?

In bathrooms, kitchens and balconies, ceramic tile, porcelain and water resistant vinyl come first. What they share is that they do not change size on contact with water.

Timber based coverings are not recommended in these areas. When the core board of a laminate absorbs water it swells, and that damage cannot be reversed. Even in types sold as water resistant, the joints remain the weak point.

The kitchen sits somewhere between. It is not permanently wet, but there is always risk around the dishwasher and the sink. Tile is the safe choice there. Where a timber look is wanted, water resistant vinyl offers a reasonable middle path.

Why does the subfloor matter?

What decides the life of a floor is often the surface underneath rather than the product itself. A covering laid over an uneven floor creaks underfoot, opens at the joints and wears early.

With timber based coverings, flatness is critical. A deviation in the surface leaves the plank unsupported, it moves when stepped on and the locking system works loose over time. This looks like a product fault and comes from the subfloor.

With tile the problem shows differently. A tile laid over an uneven floor with a void beneath it cracks when load is applied. This is why full adhesive coverage matters and why voids are not left.

What is an expansion gap and why is it left?

Timber based coverings move with temperature and humidity, so their dimensions change slightly through the seasons. The expansion gap is the space left at the wall so that movement happens without the floor binding.

That gap is usually between 8 and 10 millimetres and is covered by the skirting. It is invisible and it does its job. In a floor laid without it, the planks push against each other in a damp season and lift in the middle of the room.

The same logic calls for transition profiles in large areas. Gaps left at doorways and along long corridors stop the floor moving as one mass. These details are decided during installation and cannot be added afterwards.

Can it be laid over the existing floor?

In some cases it can, and that removes the cost of breaking out and disposal. What decides it is whether the existing floor is sound, level and whether the change in height is acceptable.

Where existing tiles are sound, not hollow and reasonably flat, laying laminate or vinyl over them is common practice. If any tile underneath is loose, it keeps moving under the new covering and the problem works its way to the surface.

The point that needs most attention is the height. When the floor rises, doors start to catch at the bottom, the step between the bathroom and the hallway changes and the opening height for built in appliances is affected. This is calculated before work starts.

How long does laying take?

With click systems such as laminate, an area of around 100 square metres is usually finished in 1 to 2 days. The product is not bonded to the floor, so the work moves quickly.

Tiling takes longer. In a standard bathroom it runs 3 to 5 days, because the adhesive and the grout need time to set. That waiting cannot be shortened, and rushing it wears the grout early.

The second factor is preparation. If an existing covering has to come up and the surface needs levelling, that step takes its own time. We separate the two at the survey, because preparation days can be longer than the laying itself.

Need help with this? Surveys and quotations are free in Kemalpasa and the surrounding area. Tell us about your project and we will plan the right approach together.

FAQ

Frequently asked about laminate & vinyl flooring

Can laminate be used over underfloor heating?

It can, provided the manufacturer states that the product is suitable for it. Not every laminate is. In suitable products the heat passing through the covering has been allowed for, and in unsuitable ones the plank distorts over time. Underlay matters here too, since a layer that blocks heat transfer reduces the efficiency of the system.

What would you suggest instead of carpet?

People usually move away from carpet for cleaning or allergy reasons, so a surface that wipes clean makes sense. In bedrooms and living rooms laminate or engineered wood gives a warm look. In hallways that get heavy use, a hard wearing laminate or vinyl lasts longer. If warmth underfoot matters, replacing the covering and using a loose rug over it is a common solution.

How long before I can use the floor?

With click systems the floor can be walked on as soon as fitting is complete, and heavy furniture needs only a short wait. With bonded systems and tiling, the adhesive needs to set. That period varies by product and should be stated clearly by the installer. A floor loaded before it has set can develop a hollow sound later on.

How is the skirting chosen?

Skirting does two things, it closes the expansion gap and protects the base of the wall. Its height is chosen against the proportions of the wall and the door architrave. Skirting matched to the floor ties the area together, while skirting matched to the wall makes the ceiling read higher. If cable runs are likely, profiles with a channel avoid drilling later.

Can I buy the flooring myself?

You can. In that case the quotation covers labour and the necessary consumables. One suggestion, buy slightly more than the calculated area. Cutting waste and transport damage need a margin, and if a plank is damaged later you will have the same batch to hand. The same product bought from a different batch can show a difference in tone.